We’re about to order more fertiliser again, even though we applied it in spring. Fortunately at the time we took the soil test and sent them off to Hills Labs. We also used an independent soil consultant  (Wise Earth) to give an unbiased interpretation of the results. This was important to me as I did not want to receive a biased recommendation.

I did not want to lift phosphate (P) levels because we have 3 waterways though our property and it only takes relatively small concentrations of unused P to leach from the soil to become a problem in the waterways. My preference was for natural fertilisers, however that path revealed we would be missing out on some critical ingredients, and one these (elemental sulphur) is commonly low in Rodney and Northland. Another reason why an independent soil test was a good return on investment!

Since that first application I have noticed a marked increase in clover in paddocks that were previously almost devoid of clover. Clover production is important for assisting with Nitrogen fixation. It also seems that the grass has bounced back more quickly after grazing during these drier months.

Soil health

The well reported damage of over-application of phosphate prompted more research into the topic of soil health. There is a great deal of information and evidence that suggests that soil biology is key to healthy soil and therefore healthy animals*.

Applying phosphorus (P) for plant growth when the level of P available to the plant is below optimum levels has been standard practice for years. When Wise Earth analysed our soil test results it was clear our phosphorous levels were fine – we did not need more P in the form of super phosphate.

It seems that super is not always conducive to good soil biology*. After application super will render the area surrounding a granule acidic, ensuring any biological activity (worms, microbes etc) in its path is wiped out. The lower pH level is not long term but initially these very low pH (acid) conditions will reduce biological activity.

At low pH phosphate can ‘lock up’ by bonding with aluminium, which ceases to be plant available. Releasing this bond is one of the main reasons for lifting pH in the soil.

Soil friendly fertiliser

My aim is to improve productivity of the land through improved soil life – microbes, worm activity and other symbiotic soil life. There are other forms of fertiliser that are friendlier to worm and soil biology by being more pH neutral.

Dicalcic is one such pH neutral fertiliser which is formed out of a reaction between super phosphate and lime mixed with a controlled amount of moisture. The reaction of the ingredients produces a compound that is pH neutral, so it does not drop the pH around the granule releasing phosphorous (P) more slowly, and is better suited to the rate at which the plant utilises P.

Worm activity is a good indication of the level of microbial life and greater biological life in all forms. If there is an abundance of worm activity in the soil, then we have healthy soil and ultimately healthy animals. Worms are very efficient recyclers. Dung, urine and dead plant material all get converted into a growing humus layer. Humus is finely divided organic matter in soil which provides nutrients essential to plant growth. Worms also aerate the soil and foster microbial activity which feeds the plant.

Phosphorous levels as measured by the Olsen-P level, has been the traditional marker for soil fertility. Hatuma Lime Co in the Hawkes Bay report their clients who have used a combination of dicalcic and lime over a number of years, show very good production stats yet very low Olsen P levels. The reason is the Olsen P test measures inorganic plant-available P but does not measure the level of organic P available.

Improving the humus layer also means the plant gets what it needs more readily. The other advantage of dicalcic is that it is not water soluble so it can be applied any time of year and is retained by the soil.

We will, for the purposes of this topic, continue to monitor Olsen P levels, but I will be particularly interested in worm numbers each autumn and spring as an indicator of soil health. From what I have read, I imagine we will see Olsen P maintained and an improvement in soil fertility. This should be indicated by an improved humus layer (and more carbon-rich soil) which is not only good for plant life but it also means there is no wastage or run-off of P into the surrounding waterways.

- Neville Walker

*Article ref Source: What Happens to Superphosphate P in the Soil? Dave McKie MAgSc (Hons),

Soil Scientist (Soiltech).

Ed’s comment: The first step to knowing what your soil needs is to have soil samples analysed. Parker Lime in Kaiwaka is the local producer of dicalcic and lime. They will tailor the mix to suit your soil’s needs and they will supply big or small right down to 25kg bags for ease of handling.

Design Choices

Since last century our taste for design features and more functional aspects have developed somewhat. Our desire for quality relaxation time and the need for a respite from life’s daily stresses have helped drive demand for swimming pools. So too have real estate values no doubt. We demand more from our lifestyle because more demands are made of our precious time.

Not only can we enjoy a swim in a heated pool all year round, the design, the landscaping and the proximity to the house can make a swimming pool the social hub of the home. And when the thought of having friends around is banished to farthest reaches of your mind there’s nothing better than to glue oneself to the lounger with late afternoon sun on one’s back, and with a G&T close at hand enjoy some blissful time-out.

When we see a pool designed to work with the landscape and the home together the impact is stunning. So much of a swimming pool’s benefit comes from its visual impact. If we ignore that fact, much of its enjoyment goes largely unrealised. Consider how the view of the pool could look from your living areas (or currently looks). How would you like the surrounding trees and landscape to compliment the pool both during the day and night (especially when relaxing or entertaining)? Naturally your options are greater when planning the building and landscaping phases.

Too often the swimming pool is an afterthought or budgeted in after the landscaping is done. Yet tree leaves from February to June make their way to the pool’s filtration system like the pool’s sole purpose was to function as a leaf-catchment device.

Lighting Effects

A well thought out lighting plan is one of the most effective ways to increase the visual impact of a swimming pool. Even with existing layouts, the view from the home and to visitors can be greatly enhanced with some thought given to lighting. We often don’t appreciate how much of our lives revolve around light. We work most of our day in the light, we eat and entertain around it, and we even have more restful sleep when there is a certain amount of light, so it makes sense that we take advantage of the affect that ambient light can have on our moods.

Lighting Technology

Adding lighting effects to a pool and outdoor living area is not often thought about too deeply by most. Admittedly the costs can seem prohibitive sometimes. Yet you can see from the images shown how much more time would be spent looking out over the pool and enjoying its ambience if there was soft lighting. The enjoyment factor increases significantly.

Rising electricity costs are one thing, but the chore (and expense) of draining the pool to change bulbs is something most of us would like to avoid. Until very recently most lighting surrounding decks and pools were low voltage halogen which last around on average 2000 hours. Fortunately new lighting technology available these days makes running costs much lower and bulb longevity many thousands of hours longer.

Now it is easier and often economical to turn your swimming pool into a visual masterpiece. The soft glow of underwater pool lights, particularly at night, creates a spectacular show of light. LED lighting (Light Emitting Diodes) has now come of age and like halogen lighting they run on 12 or 24volt, but they have the advantage of significantly lower running cost, superior light output at any given wattage, and they have very low heat output. The LED units have also found a niche in applications where vibration-proof lighting or no UV output is required.

LED units are more expensive, but when you consider underwater lighting and hard-to-access bulbs require changing much less frequently (lasting around 50,000hrs – a minimum of 20 years of normal use), and the electricity savings, the cost difference is easy to reconcile. The caveat however is that LED units must be precisely regulated with 12 or 24v transformers. There is a vast difference in quality of LED and transformer units on the market and this can manifest as colour and light output inconsistency or shorter LED life. We have seen this in our own home with ordinary lighting. Old electricity lines network transformers in our area can give rise to some serious surges and sags and we often replace our incandescent, halogen and ‘eco’ long life bulbs far more frequently as a result.

The other interesting feature LEDs create is they give a magical glow to night time swimming – especially the way the light emitted from these units highlights the bubbles generated from any splashing, creating a diamond-like sparkle on the surface.

LED pool lights can be retro-fitted to either vinyl or concrete pools. And they can be recessed or surface mounted. As you can see from the images the scope for some very creative effects is startling. They also have the option of creating a multiplicity of colour across the spectrum. Normally halogens have colour filters applied which cuts down the available light to emit any kind of glow (see photos). The means you will require many halogens to create the same effect. Pool lighting like this creates a wonderful touch when you plan on entertaining guests. Not only that, but safety is a big plus, particularly for people who have difficult night vision (which can also happen to some of us after too much alcohol).

LED lighting is a way to make your beautiful swimming pool even more inviting year-round and the choices are far more colourful and affordable than ever.

Post It

If you would like to find out more about planning or building a pool talk with Martin Dunn of Innovative Pools (see advert or www.innovativepools.co.nz) or to find out more about LED lighting technology visit www.lightindustry.co.nz

In some cases councils have provided funds to assist in the costs of planting. The process usually involves fencing off an area of land along both sides of a river or stream and planting the area in trees, shrubs, flax, toe toe etc. The costs involved are treated for tax as follows:

GST

A GST registered business will be able to claim input tax on all fencing, planting and plant costs.

Income Tax

• Fencing expenditure – fully deductible.

• Planting trees – if for erosion control or shelter – fully deductible.

• Planting shrubs, flax, toe toe etc – there is no published commentary from the IRD or legislation in regard to these types of plants but there is a strong argument that the costs would be claimable up to $7500 under Section DO 3(2)(b) of the Income Tax Act.

A further benefit resulting from the creation of a wetland might be that extra titles may become available so a subdivision may be undertaken to generate some funds.

If this is the case then landowners need to be careful to ensure that the intention when the wetland was developed was not to create additional titles. It should be clear that the wetland is established for its own reasons and the land owner is subsequently allowed to, and then decides to create an extra title(s). Then we do not think the costs of the wetland can be considered a cost of the subdivision.

This could be very important in determining whether the costs of a subdivision are ‘substantial’ or ‘minor’. If the IRD considers the subdivision commenced at the time of fencing the wetland and that all of the wetland costs (fencing, planting, plants etc) are part of the cost of the subdivision then the costs would be ‘substantial’ and the subdivision taxable.

If the costs of the subdivision do not include the wetland costs then they may be ‘minor’ and not taxable.

Grant Blackbourn CA

WITHERS & CO LTD

This material should not be construed to be specific professional advice. Independent professional advice should be obtained before relying on any aspect of this material.

However, the dream can quickly become a nightmare. Livestock health is the major issue facing any would-be organic farmer, and the difficulties are magnified on a smaller block of land.

For anyone interested in breeding, or just keeping farm animals, the most vulnerable time of their lives is when they are very young, particularly just after weaning from their mother, and during their first winter. For grazing animals like cattle, sheep, goats and horses, this is the time when their digestive systems are making the big change from milk to grass, and they haven’t yet developed an immunity to intestinal parasites whose larvae are lurking in the grass. Mother’s milk confers a degree of natural immunity as well as being their best growth opportunity, so delay weaning as long as possible, without compromising the dams’ health. Another major consideration is quality and quantity of grazing, as most young animals can cope with a minor worm burden without any ill effects providing they have plenty of good food. So do not overstock your block, and make sure you have enough excess or stored feed for those lean times like winter wets and summer dries.

One of the disadvantages of this gorgeous region of Rodney that we live in, is that we don’t get many of those frosty winter days to kill off worm larvae and eggs on the ground, but we do get extremes of wet and dry, which makes feed and livestock management quite a challenge. It helps to have your grazing areas divided up into as many smaller paddocks as possible, so that you can rotate the grazing stock through them. This allows even grazing pressure with planned recovery times for the pasture, and a chance for parasite larvae to decline through exposure to UV and dehydration. A rotation of 4-6 weeks is ideal. Another great management tool is to graze different animals after each other, for example sheep following cows, or sheep following horses, as each graze differently and they act as pasture cleaners because they are not infected by each others’ larvae.

Keeping the mineral levels up in your livestock is also really important for keeping them healthy. It is essential to test your soil to see what your pH and mineral levels are, so that you can adjust them accordingly through judicious use of lime and organic fertilizers (there are many available commercially or you can make your own); seaweed, fish, compost, wormcast, RPR etc. The only way to keep your stock healthy is through what they eat, ie through the soil and their pasture. New Zealand, and particularly Rodney soils are deficient in a lot of minerals due to our high leaching rainfall, so you will need to supplement with mineral licks and drenches at various times, especially times of stress.

Keeping your animals healthy under organic management does require extra vigilance and a more attuned level of observation, as you cannot just reach for the chemical quick-fix, but it can be extremely rewarding to see them glowing with that extra health and vitality.

-Bev Trowbridge

POST IT.

A Resource Guide to Organic Pastoral Management produced by the Soil & Health Assn is currently being revised and updated and will be available later in the year- we will bring you details of cost and where it can be obtained.

For me, it’s been an interesting autumn observing the reaction of plants to the drought. I expected the drought to produce early and quite strong autumn colour – and it has. What’s surprised me though is how quickly some of the plants have dropped their leaves. (Keep in mind that I’m writing this a couple of weeks before you read it.)

As it’s been a mild and relatively calm autumn I thought the leaves would hang on for a while, but Mother Nature’s logic, I suspect, is that the trees, stressed from the drought, needed to get rid of their leaves asap and regroup for next year. Autumn colour is influenced by a variety of factors. Early frosts produce good autumn colour and while strong winds will blow leaves off, when the weather’s calm they hang around, literally, for us to appreciate.

In the nursery, autumn colour is influenced by nursery practice. Plants that have been in their bags for a while and are running out of fertiliser – in other words, they’re mildly stressed – will have better autumn colour than a plant that’s well fertilised and growing strongly. Once in the ground, older plants losing their vigour or plants struggling in hard conditions tend to have better colour than young plants growing well. There are a lot of choices in trees when it comes to autumn colour. You’ll know all the old favourites, such as liquidambar, pin oak, claret ash, Japanese maple and so on, so I thought I’d mention a few you might not be so familiar with.

First up is Acer campestre (common names English maple, hedge maple or field maple). This has interesting corky bark and smallish typically lobed maple leaves which turn to a good yellow in autumn. As its common names imply, it is a hardy tree, standing up to fairly strong winds. Its branches grow low to the ground and it prunes well, hence its frequent use as an alternative to hornbeam as a deciduous hedge in its native Europe.  Left to grow as a tree, it will get to 10m or more, making it a good specimen for lawns or paddocks.

While we are on the maple theme, Acer saccharum (native to North America) is another tree that’s a bit unusual. It’s commonly called the sugar maple because its spring sap is used for maple syrup. It’s also a lovely landscape tree. Sugar maples grow into 10m plus trees with big rounded heads and autumn colours of yellows through oranges to reds. Plant in good conditions.

Continuing with maples, Acer platanoides ‘Nigrum’ is the Purple Norway maple. I’ve found it a slowish grower, but very worthy of a place in your plantings because once again it has two strings to its bow. Purple Norway maple has big leaves which are deep purple during spring and summer, then turn red in autumn, so you get two good lots of colour out of one tree. Once again, it’s ultimately a big tree of 10m plus. Reasonably wind hardy.

Enough of maples – let’s have a look at something quite different, the taxodiums from North America. T. distichum (swamp cypress) and T. ascendens (pond cypress), give a brilliant russett colour in autumn. In spring their foliage returns a bright, fresh green. They’re big trees and are great for those swampy, otherwise unusable corners of the garden or paddock. They’re quite happy in the wet, even standing in water, where they produce unusual ‘knees’ or air roots. They’ll also grow happily on well-drained soils.

For beautiful, gold autumn colour, it’s hard to go past the Ginkgo biloba (maidenhair tree), which hails from China and has beautiful, pure golden maidenhair-shaped leaves. It likes reasonable soils and protection from strong winds.

To finish off, how about an oak? Quercus rubra (from North America) is the red oak with great red autumn colour. It’s a large, round-headed tree with much bigger leaves than the other oaks. As the tree matures, its leaves can get up to 30cm long and 15 to 20cm wide, an impressive sight when they turn red. Like most oaks, the red oak is quite tough and will tolerate poor soils and fairly strong winds.

Now is a good time to be getting onto those major planting projects. Get the plants in the ground now and they’ll be semi-established before the next drought comes along.

Happy planting!

captions:

Acer campestre (English maple)

Acer saccharum (sugar maple)

Acer platanoides ‘Nigrum’ (Norway maple)

Re Taxodium ascendens

This illustrates the influence of age on autumn colour. The young Taxodium ascendens (foreground) is still fully clad, although its leaves have started to turn, while in the background a semi-mature T. distitchum is almost bare.

Quercus rubra (red oak)

Ginkgo biloba (maidenhair tree)

- Grant McKechnie

What is an adequate fence?

“Adequate fence” is a term from the Act. Ultimately, the courts decide whether a fence is adequate or not. However, a rough rule of thumb is whether the fence:

(a) Prevents others’ stock entering your land;

(b) Keeps your stock in.

It is generally accepted that a seven wire post and batten fence which is kept tight will be the standard for an adequate rural fence. Variations on that theme include the addition of:

(a) Electrical outriggers;

(b) One or two strands of barbed wire.

I am reliably informed that a milking cow will happily remain within a single wire electric fence. However, such a fence will not keep a hill country Black Angus in or out. In fact, a hill country Black Angus could win the Kentucky Derby if you could get the jockey to stay on. In other words, tailor your fence to the class of stock involved. Do not risk a single electric fence on a boundary.

However, it is not uncommon for deer-height boundary fences in deer country. Wild deer are difficult to harvest, even with stealth and a gun licence. Moreover, deer are nocturnal feeders and can eat a winter’s supply of fresh grass before they jump your conventional seven-wire fence and disappear into the neighbour’s bush.

Contributions

Equal contributions to the repairs and ongoing maintenance of a fence arrangement is the norm.

This can become difficult if one neighbour considers a standard seven wire fence to be perfectly adequate in a context where someone requires something more substantial. This usually involves a careful calculation of the time and cost to get your case for an adequate fence in front of a District Court Judge as against spending a bit more on wires, posts and labour.

Stock and fast moving cars – a bad recipe

Threats to life and serious vehicle damage are risks if stock wander onto the road. This can be worse during a drought, when stock sample the herbage on the other side of the fence, usually by pressing through at some weak point. The issue of wandering stock also opens the door to the following:

(a) A polite letter from Rodney District Council referring to a safety bylaw and adequate fencing;

(b) Impounding and trespass under the Impounding Act 1955.

The Council’s letter will usually invite you to repair the fence forthwith. Failing that, the Council will send its own contractors to do so at your expense. Trespass by stock can be tricky, as the RDC have both the authority and the means to collect any wandering animals under the provisions of the Impounding Act 1955. Alternatives to this include impounding the wandering stock on your own property at the expense of the stock owner. You also risk serious money damages if your herd of bulls tip-toes through the neighbour’s prize tulips.

Near enough to the boundary may be good enough. A fence on the boundary is better than near enough to the boundary, although there is scope for a give and take boundary fence where the contour of the ground dictates that as a matter of necessity.

Lastly, does the Council have to fence a paper road? The short answer to this appears to be no, even if New Zealand does devote considerable resources to fencing off new stretches of motorway from time to time.

Summary

Ultimately, you as a stock owner may face criminal liability if your stock wander on to a public road and cause an accident which either harms (or much worse) someone who collides with that animal. You may also be liable if your stock trespasses into your neighbour’s prize crops.

The best course of action is to make sure your fences are adequate for the class of stock on either side of the fence. Adequacy is a matter of judgment about what is the best barrier in the circumstances.

- Luke Kemp, LLB, B.com, Dip. Hort.

Ed’s comment: As always, this should not be construed to be specific professional advice. We recommend obtaining independent professional advice before relying on any aspect of this material. Luke Kemp is the Principal of Kemp Barristers and Solicitors. For clarification or further advice please email luke@kempsolicitors.co.nz.

Looking up the EECA website (http://www.eeca.govt.nz) we found the competition was part of a campaign aimed at increasing public knowledge of energy efficient lighting and energy savings in general.

When the letter of confirmation arrived from EECA we found the prize consisted of; a Centameter, valued at $250 (we had no idea what that was); a residential energy assessment to be performed by an EcoSmart electrician valued at $250 and lighting product and labour valued at $500. Brilliant!

Electricians gain EcoSmart registration by completing a course run by ECANZ, the Master Electricians organisation and EECA competition sponsor (http://www.ecanz.org.nz). Looking for the EcoSmart electrician closest to Helensville,  Master Electricians, the competition sponsor, came up with Alpha Electrical, a father/son company based at Waimauku.

First up, Luke and Alf Nabarro arranged for the installation of the Centameter. We learned that this is a small electronic device with a wireless connection to your meter that measures and displays the hourly cost of your electricity use, beeping when you exceed your pre-set limit (we set ours at $2 per hour). The purpose of the Centameter is to encourage consumers to save power by constantly monitoring how much you’re using and what it’s costing you. (See more at http://www.centameter.co.nz).

To gauge our energy use Luke completed an EcoSmart residential check sheet, an exhaustive list of things to consider, starting with a thorough assessment of our power plan, then checking it against the competition to see if we were getting the best deal. From the website (http://www.switchme.co.nz) we found there was a cheaper option and made the decision to switch power companies (it should have been quick and easy – it soon turned into a bureaucratic nightmare, but that’s another story).

We should have installed solar power when the house was built – that’s still on the to-do list – but our house faces north, is well insulated, has plenty of sun-trapping glass windows and doors and for winter heating there’s a super-efficient wood burner, so all the heating and ventilation questions got a big tick on the check sheet.

Our lighting was another story. The house was built five years ago, just before eco bulbs were in common use, so the room-by-room check of the type and number of lights installed turned up the fact that our lighting was anything but efficient and  economical. We learned that replacing the incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescents lamps (CFLs) would enable considerable financial and energy use savings. There will be other savings as the lamps can last up to 3 years and our light fittings will have a longer life due to the new lamps having a much lower heat output. Over a year we expect to save around $500.

At first I thought having the Centameter was going to make us a bit neurotic, as its beeping (always at night when the stove was being used) sent us all into a lather of turning things off. After fleetingly considering moving into the chook house to cut down on our power consumption we’ve now relaxed into the new regime and with our heightened awareness of our energy use and the arrival of summer the Centameter hardly beeps at all. Needless to say, we’re thrilled with our unexpected eco lighting windfall!

The eco lights currently in favour, while they are a big improvement on the old lights, are of course an interim measure, given that LED lighting puts out more light and less heat and is by far the most energy efficient. Lighting companies are now no longer making high wattage incandescent lamps (e.g. 75w and 100w) as they are highly inefficient. LED lighting costs, which have been prohibitive, are now coming down and within reach of the household consumer.
Some facts

• Conventional incandescent bulbs cost around $2.50, use up to 100w of power and last around 6 months.
• CFLs cost around $8, use from 11w to 20w and last about 3 years. Resistance to using these lamps because of the mercury content has waned as people have seen how far the technology has come since they were first introduced. The light output is now far superior now and they are compatible with many down-lights. (The $8 CFLs don’t work with dimmers so you need to buy dimmable eco lamps at around $30).
• As a replacement for old incandescent lamps CFLs greatly reduce the risk of heat build-up and fire, especially if the down-lights are covered by insulation.
• As they contain mercury, CFL lamps must be disposed of safely. Electricians collect them for collection and disposal by a recycling company.
• LED lamps for halogen down-light replacements cost around $50, use around 5w-8w but last up to 40,000 hours, with a payback in around 2 years. New fittings that replace a standard 80mm down-light, run 6 hours a day, will cost only $4 to run for the whole year!